10 top tips from our Rio de Janeiro correspondent

From the birthplace of samba to sundowners by the sea, our man in Rio knows where to go for a good night out, as well as the best spots for taking in the breathtaking tropical beauty of the ‘Marvellous City’

Experience the Wonders of Lagoa at Twilight

Whether you're an enthusiastic runner or prefer a more leisurely walk, a visit to the Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, affectionately known as the lagoa, should be a non-negotiable part of your evening itinerary in Rio. Engage in a playful tandem bike ride or glide serenely in a swan boat along the picturesque 7.4-kilometre stretch. Along the way, do not miss a break indulging in refreshing coconut water or a frosty glass of chope (Brazil's local beer) by the shoreline. To cap your evening, dine at one of the diverse selection of waterside eateries such as the acclaimed Arab da Lagoa, which caters delicious hummus and pitta.

While relishing the feast for your senses, take in the iconic sights including the Christ the Redeemer, the Dois Irmãos, and Pedra da Gávea mountains, as well as various sports enthusiasts making their rounds. Wildlife lovers will thoroughly enjoy observing species like herons and capybara, the largest rodent in the world, in their natural surroundings. Although the lagoon's reputation for some pollution and decaying fish is not unfounded, it's typically only a factor once a year. To guarantee optimal enjoyment, it is suggested to avoid driving to the lagoa. The road congestion can make it a daunting experience.

Picnic on the Dois Irmãos

As a destination with stunning landscape, Rio is well-regarded for its breathtaking panoramas. Among these, the Two Brothers mountain, locally known as Dois Irmãos, stands out. From this vista, you can gaze over the picturesque beaches of Ipanema and Leblon and see the boundless Atlantic expanse. To make the most of this experience, it's advisable to commence your voyage at dawn, thus avoiding large groups. Carry a light lunch with you, and make your way up via the Vidigal favela in a locally utilized combi (minibus). After that, a 40-minute hike through the pure, verdant forest leads you to the summit where you can relish your packed meal whilst adoring the splendid view. Upon returning to the sea level, take a refreshing dip in the ocean to cool down. However, be mindful of the changing security conditions in Rio. Always make sure Vidigal, despite being known as one of the secure favela communities, is safe to visit.

Inspired by this adventure and yearning for more, consider ascending the Pedra da Gávea, taking a leisurely hike to the Parrot's Beak (Bico do Papagaio), or explore further into Rio state to visit Ponta Negra in Paraty or seek a guide for the awe-inspiring two-day mountainous trail from Teresopolis to Petropolis. Hiking these routes not only satisfies the thrill-seeker in you but also presents magnificent, unforgettable panoramas.

Have a sundowner on the Urca seawall

It has been called Rio’s Malecón, but that does not do justice to the sea wall on the Urca peninsula, where crowds gather outside Bar Urca (which does great salgadinhos, or snacks) every Friday night to watch the sun go down behind Christ the Redeemer on the Corcovado, then drink and talk into the early hours. The vibe here is extremely relaxed. This is partly thanks to Urca, which feels more a 19th-century fishing village than a district in one of the world’s biggest cities. There is also an unusually low threat of crime because the peninsula is controlled by a military base. For a variation on the same theme, hike 15 minutes up the Morro do Urca to one of the bars serving caipirinhas on the ropeway route up to the Sugarloaf. Other decent drinking holes in Rio include Bar do Gomez in Santa Teresa, Adega Perola in Copacabana and Bar do Zé in Catete.

Samba at Pedra do Sal

When it comes to a unique samba experience, the iconic Pedra do Sal, fondly referred to as 'Salt Rock' in Saúde area, is the unbeatable venue. Every Monday, and occasionally Fridays, the locale that holds a profound history of once being a central hub for slave trade transforms into a lively scene. The place is known to have given birth to a free 'Little Africa', a quilombola community, which has nurtured numerous talented Brazilian musicians.

The vibrant streets are brimming with a contagious rhythm, engaging locals, and vendors offering an enticing variety of food and beverages. For a memorable, full-day journey, guests are encouraged to arrive early. Before they get absorbed in the pulsating energy of the night, they can explore the Museum of Tomorrow, and the architecturally breathtaking port district featuring the legacy of Olympic redevelopment.

As the day fades into a starlit night, visitors can continue the rhythmic adventure at the well-known Trapiche Gamboa samba nightclub located nearby. Here, the vibrant beats, drinks, and dance promise a night of unforgettable revelry.

Wander up Selarón’s mosaic stairway in Lapa

In recent history, one of Rio de Janeiro's most captivating and poignant tales revolves around the untimely demise of Jorge Selarón, a Chilean artist who found inspiration in the city. Over an extraordinary period of two decades, he transformed an ordinary staircase in Lapa into a vibrant work of art, painstakingly covering it with mirrors, mosaics, and ceramic tiles. Despite the absence of initial official patronage, Selarón's dedication to his craft never faltered. Yet, with fame and recognition came heartbreaking tragedy. In 2013, the streets Selarón once visited for a friendly drink were the same that cradled his lifeless form, found on the very steps he lovingly adorned. His death remains shrouded in mystery, with speculative whispers of murder and suicide filling the air. Nonetheless, his memory lives on in the colorful tiles and shimmering reflections through which visitors navigate their way up the staircase, the strains of live forro and chorinho music from Lapa's archways serving as their soundtrack. The pathway leads to the bohemian stronghold of Santa Teresa's eclectic bars and restaurants. Please remember, for your safety, it is not advisable to traverse the staircase's summit after dark.

Christ on a bike

Visiting the emblematic statue of Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro offers a variety of journey options. You can consider ascending from Cosme Velho by minibus or train or start an adventurous hike from Parque Lage. Yet, my personal preference is a vigorous bicycle ride up to the iconic summit via the lush Tijuica forest. The picturesque sights, intermittent visits of capuchins, toucans, and rarely even snakes, combined with mountain showers make the arduous climb worthwhile. The descent includes an adrenaline-pumping ride down sheer slopes. For the more daring cyclists, there's an extensive three-hour route that begins from Santa Teresa, spirals up to Corcovado, trails the Paineiras ridge, descends to Alto da Boa Vista, and covers part of the demanding Olympic cycling track past Mesa do Imperador and Vista Chinesa. Cycling enthusiasts can rent bikes from Fiets Rio situated in Ipanema or Laranjeiras. An exciting journey that lets you explore the breathtaking beauty of Rio de Janeiro, unfiltered.

Fish lunch at Niteroi market

Rio de Janeiro may not immediately impress when it comes to its typical city restaurants, yet venturing slightly farther reveals the diverse culinary treasures it houses. Take the ferry ride across Guanabara Bay to encounter Niteroi's vibrant market. Here, ground floor fish stalls, boasting an impressive range of fresh seafood, happily leave the culinary creativity up to you; simply choose your seafood and get it prepared to your liking at the upstairs eateries. Fantastic alternatives include the hidden gem, Os Esquilos nestled deep in Tijuca forest and Arataca in the heart of Copacabana. Don't be deceived by its modest appearance, Arataca delivers a remarkable moqueca, a traditional Bahian seafood stew, and an exceptional tambaqui dish, a specialty involving freshwater fish, rivaling those found even in the Amazon. To truly immerse in the local food scene, start your mornings with an energizing breakfast of açai fruit coupled with bananas and granola, easily available at numerous juice bars dotted throughout the city.

Stroll among the bromeliads at Jardim Botânico

Diving deep into the hearts of Rio de Janeiro, you'll find an incredible 200-year-old botanical oasis. My frequent visits here have opened my eyes to the remarkable variety of roughly 6,500 plant species flourishing in this wonderland, comprising everything from man-eating plants to orchids, cacti, and bromeliads. One can't help but feel mesmerized by the sheer biodiversity sprawled across the extensive garden grounds.

Following an exhilarating photo session along the Avenue of Royal Palms, the cool serenity of the verdant forest shade and local cafés offer a much welcomed respite. This encounter might spark a deeper craving for emerald encounters, in which case, a visit to the home of Burle Max at Barra de Guaratiba (refer to the details below) is an absolute must.

Burle Max, a creative genius juggled multiple hats with his legacy encompassing ecologist, artist, and landscape designer backgrounds. His creations are testament that he unquestionably deserves to be amongst Brazil's top national treasures. Defying the conventional norm of European floral and design imports, he beautifully blended folk art, cubism, and abstractionism to redefine tropical horticulture that resonated with the beauty of local flora like philodendrons and bromeliads.

His love for his country’s rich biodiversity was evident as he was among the pioneers in advocating sentiments towards Amazon conservation. With this fact, it should come as no surprise then, that his breathtaking garden productions seem like a heartfelt poem dedicated to the wonder of Brazil's unique vegetation.

Experiencing Gastronomy at the Glorious Gloria Market

Gloria, a neighborhood known for its vivacious atmosphere, sex hotels, and unpretentious bars, truly springs to life each Sunday when it hosts the city's premier food market. With diverse offerings from the spirited "Rei da Merda" manure vendor to spice sellers touting an assortment of chillis, the market is an exuberant mélange of color, sound, and aroma. A popular street food dish that you should not miss sampling is the tapioca pancake cooked to perfection at one of the makeshift plastic-chair venues.

Personally, I gravitate towards the savoury concoction of tomato, cheese, onion, and oregano. Nonetheless, if you are a sweet lover, you will take pleasure in a delectable variant topped with Nutella and banana. Relishing these pancakes, delectably filling, makes for a delightful culinary experience, particularly accompanied with a cold glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice.

Though, if it's handmade mementos or gifts you are searching for, you may wish to head over to the Sunday hippy market near General Osorio station in Ipanema. Here, craft lovers will find their paradise at this bustling fair.

Stand-up paddleboarding at Barra de Guaratiba

While I may not be a pro in beach sports, I find immense pleasure in partaking in them when the environment permits. Popular spots such as Copacabana and Arpoador, while appealing, can oftentimes be intimidating for novices like myself due to the formidable wave sizes and occasional low water quality. It's advisable to avoid venturing in murky waters. However, if you traverse about an hour away from the city’s bustling tourist areas, you might stumble upon serene and pristine waters. A personal favorite of mine is the captivating mangrove swamps at Barra de Guaratiba - a hidden gem that doesn't feature on most maps and is ideally suited for beginners. With a speck of luck, you may even catch a glimpse of an alligator – rest assured though, they're not typically large enough in this area to be cause for concern. Capping off your day with an appetizing meal at the hillside Point de Grumari restaurant is highly recommended. Along with a remarkable seafood platter, you’ll be treated to one of the most spectacular views of the mangrove swamps, unmatched across the globe.